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T O P I C R E V I E WLunarRoverSeveral cS folks have recently contacted me inquiring about parts for their Grumman contractor lunar module models.The short answer to any future questions is, yes, I can sometimes supply missing pieces, e.g., the rendezvous antenna, the S-band antenna, etc. I will occasionally purchase a badly yellowed or junker model to use as a parts source for one of my restorations; some pieces have also been successfully reproduced (not cheaply). Also, I've developed a technique for refinishing the metal parts of these models which yields excellent, new old-stock results; I finger rub a compound into the metal surface; this is not some cheapo silver paint respray sort of deal.Anyone who needs parts, or perhaps desires a face-lift for their model, please feel free to contact me directly. I feel a great passion for these historic and incredibly beautiful models, and would enjoy corresponding with anyone who shares these feelings or who has details about this model and it's history.Larry McGlynnI have one of these restored Grumman LM models. They are a sight to behold. To anyone who would like to own a artifact that truly represents the Apollo era, then I would highly recommend contacting LunarRover.Go4LaunchWould owners of LM models please discuss the position of the rendezvous radar antenna? It appears from some photos to have a small metal pin through the mounting bracket so it can be tilted up or down. Is that the case or did it come fixed at a certain angle?Rick MulheirnI can only speak for my own model but the rendezvous radar dish has a pin through it that allows it to move. Over the years I have seen lots of these models... often with the dish in different positions so I would presume this is the norm.GACspaceguyI agree with Rick, mine has a pin through it that allows free rotation.Go4LaunchAnother question for model owners, please, this one on the two inflight VHF antennas: I know the correct orientation of the rear antenna is essentially horizontal (outward), but is the left-hand one also supposed to be horizontal? Mine only seems to mount in a way that has it pointing more upward that outward, if that makes sense. I can also report excellent results cleaning up the white/cream colored parts of these models using a soft cloth and automotive polishing compound. I had Turtle Wax but any brand is probably OK. It does a great job without scratching the plastic and in fact may even be removing any light scratches but hard to say -- in other words, it is gentle and barely abrasive. I would advise against rubbing compound which is much more abrasive unless you really want to get down to fresh plastic -- and who knows how far down the typical UV tinting goes? Plus it might be hard to recreate the original surface luster; I have not tried. Incidentally, probably a good alternative would be Novus Plastic Polish #2, which, by the way, does do an excellent job cleaning up any lucite items you may have and removing light scratches.ggelbThe pride of my collection is a pre-Apollo 11 Grumman contractor's LEM model. Although yellowed, it is missing only the S-band and 1 RCS thruster as far as I can tell. I would love to restore this magnificent item to its original beauty. What should be my first step to make this happen?Thank you, in advance, for any assistance you can provide!Editor's note: Threads merged.LEMManRecently I had my Grumman Lunar Model beautifully restored by Andy Lagomarsino.I have had my model since my childhood years when it was given to me by my father. Luckily, my model had not "yellowed" over the years,(kept in a box and survived a fair number of moves over 40 years or so) but did require a few thruster replacements and fabrication of a missing dish. In addition, my model required some touchup painting and repairs to the base.Andy professionally restored my model to its original condition and it looks fantastic!!! Furthermore I received several updates along with pictures documenting progress. I feel very fortunate to have connected with Andy and that he agreed to work on my model.Rick MulheirnThere is nobody better at restoring these models than Andy. If there is such a thing as a Grumman/Topping LEM specialist Andy is it.To my knowledge he has restored dozens of them...manilajimAndy rebuilt my LM and did a fantastic job. You can't tell what was done - his work is amazing. davidcwagnerAnyone do LM Contractor model restoration? Please contact me: davidcwagner@yahoo.com.Editor's note: Threads merged.mikehHas anyone had success with reducing Topping Precise contractor model yellowing? I have a a LM in very good condition that I'd like to lighten up. I've read about temporary success of de-yellowing old plastic computers using the Retr0bright process (hydrogen peroxide, Oxy cleaner and UV), or just hydrogen peroxide bath and 6 hours in the sun. I have also reconditioned old plastic pinball parts with Novus products, #1 being mostly a cleaner polish. I don't know it the model plastics are the same or how much it would actually improve the yellowing. I'd like to hear from the experts before attempting anything. Rick MulheirnA good friend of mine Andy Lagomarsino (something of a Topping LM restoration expert) did strip back the yellowed top coat on a LM a few years ago as much to see if it could be done as anything else.The result was a qualified success. The model did look whiter, but decals and such were not touched and evidence of the yellowing remained.I know he also had some scary moments when the substance used to remove the top coat began to eat into the plastic.Personally, I would leave well alone. If you want a whiter example, keep your eyes peeled on eBay and if one crops up buy it and swap over the various parts from the yellowed model (landing gear, antenna and such) to the newer acquisition... should that be necessary.Be sure an ask any prospective seller to provide photos of the model taken in daylight without flash and with the model on a sheet of white paper.
The short answer to any future questions is, yes, I can sometimes supply missing pieces, e.g., the rendezvous antenna, the S-band antenna, etc. I will occasionally purchase a badly yellowed or junker model to use as a parts source for one of my restorations; some pieces have also been successfully reproduced (not cheaply).
Also, I've developed a technique for refinishing the metal parts of these models which yields excellent, new old-stock results; I finger rub a compound into the metal surface; this is not some cheapo silver paint respray sort of deal.
Anyone who needs parts, or perhaps desires a face-lift for their model, please feel free to contact me directly.
I feel a great passion for these historic and incredibly beautiful models, and would enjoy corresponding with anyone who shares these feelings or who has details about this model and it's history.
To anyone who would like to own a artifact that truly represents the Apollo era, then I would highly recommend contacting LunarRover.
I can also report excellent results cleaning up the white/cream colored parts of these models using a soft cloth and automotive polishing compound. I had Turtle Wax but any brand is probably OK. It does a great job without scratching the plastic and in fact may even be removing any light scratches but hard to say -- in other words, it is gentle and barely abrasive. I would advise against rubbing compound which is much more abrasive unless you really want to get down to fresh plastic -- and who knows how far down the typical UV tinting goes? Plus it might be hard to recreate the original surface luster; I have not tried.
Incidentally, probably a good alternative would be Novus Plastic Polish #2, which, by the way, does do an excellent job cleaning up any lucite items you may have and removing light scratches.
Thank you, in advance, for any assistance you can provide!
Editor's note: Threads merged.
I have had my model since my childhood years when it was given to me by my father. Luckily, my model had not "yellowed" over the years,(kept in a box and survived a fair number of moves over 40 years or so) but did require a few thruster replacements and fabrication of a missing dish. In addition, my model required some touchup painting and repairs to the base.
Andy professionally restored my model to its original condition and it looks fantastic!!! Furthermore I received several updates along with pictures documenting progress.
I feel very fortunate to have connected with Andy and that he agreed to work on my model.
To my knowledge he has restored dozens of them...
I've read about temporary success of de-yellowing old plastic computers using the Retr0bright process (hydrogen peroxide, Oxy cleaner and UV), or just hydrogen peroxide bath and 6 hours in the sun.
I have also reconditioned old plastic pinball parts with Novus products, #1 being mostly a cleaner polish. I don't know it the model plastics are the same or how much it would actually improve the yellowing.
I'd like to hear from the experts before attempting anything.
The result was a qualified success. The model did look whiter, but decals and such were not touched and evidence of the yellowing remained.
I know he also had some scary moments when the substance used to remove the top coat began to eat into the plastic.
Personally, I would leave well alone. If you want a whiter example, keep your eyes peeled on eBay and if one crops up buy it and swap over the various parts from the yellowed model (landing gear, antenna and such) to the newer acquisition... should that be necessary.
Be sure an ask any prospective seller to provide photos of the model taken in daylight without flash and with the model on a sheet of white paper.
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